Certainly. All Tromba horns take standard mouthpieces. Plastic mouthpieces are included with each horn, except the flugelhorn, which has a very classy metal one. The trombone takes the standard small shank mouthpiece, not the larger size.
Injection-molded ABS plastic. Want to really impress the other players in your group? Tell them your Tromba horn is made of acrylonitrile butadiene styrene.
It can be cleaned in a bath of warm water and a little dish liquid. Remove the valves and slides, and slosh it around thoroughly. Rinse well. It will take a little time and care to get all the water out. If needed, re-oil the valves. The tuning slides can be lubricated with Vaseline.
On Tromba Instruments the valve tolerances are quite tight, resulting in a minimum of air leakage and the best tone quality. Keep the valves and the valve tubes clean; use a strip of soft cloth in the slotted stick that comes with the horn. And you may find that it’s best to use a minimum of oil. The tolerances are such that even too much oil can slow the action.
It may be caused by the positioning washer - the black plastic washer at the base of the valve spring. There are small studs that project from each side of the washer. If those studs stick out just a bit too far, they may not always fit firmly in their side slots, resulting in a tilted washer and a stuck valve. This can easily be remedied. Using a fine file or an emery board, carefully file down the plastic ends a bit so that the studs do not project out so far. Take off a little material on each side. Does that black plastic washer move smoothly up and down the two channels in the valve’s plastic body? If you can feel some drag, use the emery board to enlarge the channels a bit. Hold the washer all the way up to the top, compressing the spring, as you file those channels a little wider. Be careful not to leave any notches in the channels. When that is done, you can use the brush that came with the horn to clear out any of the dust caused by the work or just hold the valve under running water. Here’s another fine point, but an important one. The studs on that black washer are not the same; one is a bit bigger. That bigger one goes on the side of the valve that has a small black square at the top of the valve’s metal sheath. If you take the valve apart, be careful to replace the washer correctly when you reassemble it.
No, it will be fine, but when returning the valves to their tubes, they must be correctly oriented. Each valve has a small black square at the top of its metal sheath. On valves one and two that black square should be on the side toward the mouth piece pipe. With the third valve that black square should face away from the mouthpiece pipe. And when replacing a valve, be sure that it clicks into place. Actually, the three valves on any Tromba instrument are identical, and if you follow the directions above it might be possible to replace them in any order. But it’s not likely – each valve tube differs very slightly in size and the valves have been fitted by hand.
First unscrew the long plastic rod and screw it into the other side of the disc. Then snap the legs into the slots in the disc. Caution: the plastic bases on the metal legs may fit very tightly. Do NOT hold the metal legs to snap them in place or to collapse them. The force may break the plastic piece that holds each leg. Hold the plastic itself when you snap in the legs to set up or take down the stand.
It’s because your Tromba horn is ABS plastic. The valves and springs on your brass trumpet probably make some noise, but the heavier brass can mask the sound. Just for fun, with a mouthpiece on your brass horn, put it up to your ear and pump one of the valves – or all three of them at the same time. What a chorus!